Nerve Endings Firing Away

Indian Express is running a fine series on the state of our world-heritage monuments. They presented two contrasting case studies over the past weekend; one in Sanchi and the other in Aurangabad — the Stupa and the Ajanta Caves respectively. Personally, these monuments are close to my interest since I have studied them both during my undergraduate years. I have visited Ajanta Caves and can claim to have only caught a glimpse of the Stupa enroute to Delhi. Both monuments are part of India’s rich cultural heritage and form the core of India’s vastly untapped tourism potential. While one is a classic example of neglect, the other has almost risen from dereliction to being a world-class example of a tourist destination while not compromising on the cultural and historical integrity. Ajanta Caves, with help from Japan Bank for International Cooperation and Tata Consultancy Services has emerged as a tourist-friendly destination:

“No cupid-pierced hearts. No polythene wrappers kicked from side to side by restless children. No mineral water bottles strewn around. Like the art inside, the Ajanta Caves defy the stereotype of Indian disregard for heritage tourism. Instead, they provide clean toilets and washrooms at regular distances. Polite security guards with radio phones take care that the four water coolers never run dry.

The interiors of the dark caves are cool and pleasant. There’re no nasty surprises, like the dank and pungent stink of stale urine. Polite guides regulate the flow of people moving in and out of the caves, even point out the tiny figurine carved into the ceiling that you may have overlooked.”

On the other hand, the Sanchi Stupa although swept clean lies neglected and the immense historical significance remains untapped:

“The car park is completely ad hoc, admit ASI officials. It is not a designated area and, during season, touts demand a king’s ransom — compared to the modest Rs 10 for entry of cars — to guard and park vehicles. There is no cafetaria or restaurant on the hill leading up to the Stupa. The display boards are in Hindi. There are no pamphlets provided to ticket-buyers to explain the intricacies of Sanchi.”

One of my first good grades in architecture college was an assignment I did on Sanchi Stupa (for a history of architecture class); hence it has a special place in my heart </immodest tone>. I hope the local administration and ASI wakes up to its primary gem.